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Walking the Great Wall of China: Jiankou to Mutianyu section

8/11/2015

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I just sold my old AppleTV, and replaced it with the latest version that supports Siri and apps and touch controlled remote and al that goodness. One of the nice little features is the screensaver, which gets updated with new footage every month, that shows stunningly beautiful full-HD fly-over videos of landmark places of our planet. One such place is a section of the Great Wall of China. And it reminded me that I really should dig through my photos from over 1.5 year ago now, when I and V were walking a section of the wall, shortly after the Chinese New Year, in the middle of freezing winter. It's the most memorable walk I have made in my 36 years so far.

It took us about 3 hours to get to the wall, by bus and taxi, where we arrived closely before 8:30 in the morning. And we finished the walk in 6.5 hours at around 15:00 in the afternoon. Here's what that looks like on the map. Red is the walk on the wall. Blue is the approach by foot (top left), and descend by cable cart (bottom right)
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And this is what that looks like in the greater scheme of things. You can just about make out the little red line, north of Beijing.
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Knowing that the wall stretches all the way from the sea far to the east, to somewhere far away in the west... maybe the photos can give you an idea of the enormous size and beauty of this wonder of the world.
5:47, we managed to get a taxi, and made it to the bus station.
After a confusing and long journey, a local Chinese man taxied us to the village at wall, where we had to buy entrance tickets.
With the tickets, we were allowed through the gate.
Even though there were signs all over the place saying that this part of the Wall was off limits to the public.
Signs saying the wall is closed, everywhere. We got out of the taxi and continued to the Wall by foot.
Having the first view of the imposing structure, in the cold morning air, was fantastic.
It's hard to imagine living in a village forever under the gaze of the Wall...
It was a short walk with the sun behind the Wall creating beautiful silhouettes.
Contradiction? Tickets, and an off limits sign...
Contradiction everywhere. Even on signs right next to each other. "This is off limits!" "Take photos!" :-D
A little climb through the wooded slopes...
...and there was the entry point to the Wall that we were targeting.
When we arrived at the Wall there was this busy chitchatting group of western seniors arriving as well. Luckily they went in the opposite direction of us.
The place where we clambered onto the Wall was quite collapsed, which is why we could get on it, via a makeshift ladder, and we had to take a fair climber up over the rubble to the remains of the first tower. Once over there, the stunning views began rolling out in front of us where ever we looked.
The Wall! This will be the direction we'll be heading. Due east.
A little makeshift ladder helped us onto the wall. In the olden days this would be impossible from this the Mongolian side.
On the Wall! This section is very fallen down, and the path to the first tower is not much more than rubble.
Looking south. Somewhere there in the distance lies Beijing.
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Off we went... Being all alone on that Great Wall, in the silence of the world, is an astounding feeling. There is so much history there. Standing there and thinking of the people who built this place, defended this place, assaulted this place, lived in this place... unfathomable.
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Alone on the Wall...
Grizzly peaks and winding Wall...
I basically wanted to take a photo every step of the way. But it was so icy cold on this cloudless mid-winter day.
Certainly one of the more spectacular parts of this section of the Wall.
It's amazing the effort they put in to make sure the wall followed the peaks of the mountain ranges as much as possible.
Most of the towers were badly damaged.
Despite the damage the many towers served as beautiful picturesque lookout points.
Protected from the wind it was beautiful to peak out through the arches of the towers.
Fairly soon we encountered the biggest challenge of this day's journey. A completely collapsed steep staircase.
The collapse was so bad that it was nearly a 180 degree climb. And we were not dressed appropriately at all.
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The most challenging part of the walk came pretty soon in the journey. A part of the wall that was so badly collapsed that it basically meant a near-180-degree climb up the mountainside, being careful not to depend on loose bricks and stones. But, it was 'challenge accepted' and we soldiered on. V went first. I followed, and eventually had to hoist my backpack up to her before being able to pull myself up there. We continued into the blinding winter sunlight across the peaks. The wall was so overgrown here that the path was almost tunneled through the bushes.
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The Wall goes on and on and on and on
Sometimes the Wall is so overgrown it is hard to distinguish where it goes, even from close by. You can definitely NOT see it from space, despite popular believe.
All those bushes and trees can't be helping the stability of this legacy of mankind.
Winter sun is the nastiest sun...
We battled on and walked the walk. It was about 11 o'clock, and since we had gotten up very early, and been quite physically active, and half-frozen by now, we took a moment in one of the towers to cut up and eat some lovely Dutch cheese.
Every guard tower I felt compelled to take a picture.
V enjoying a moment of rest with glorious views. Embracing the satisfaction of having made it here.
A moment for a youfie. Otherwise known as 'a photo'. Smile!
And my turn. So glad to be here.
Time for photo together. Run!
Proof that we were here. Together. And we were happy.
A long way to go still...
Towers towers more towers
That looked like a perfect tower to have a lunch-break in.
And perfect it was. Just like to lovely Dutch cheeses.
Looking out of the gate, a distant tower beckons...
Peeking along the wall to take in the scenery ahead...
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After lunch we felt a little better, but V was getting more and more frozen. We got to a point where all she wanted was to get to the end, while I wanted to use this opportunity to take more photos. She clambered bravely ahead. I was so proud of her. 
My hero. One in a million.
Despite the icy wind and the long way ahead still, the views didn't get any worse.
Every hilltop was followed by yet another spectacular view.
It's unimaginable to think that people actually took up the challenge to take on fortifications like this...
Then to think of the ambition and incredible might to maintain and man such a line of defence.
A little moment for a pose and a smile. :-)
Next main target in sight. Another high positioned tower.
A bunch of lower towers to pass by in between still.
Looking south once more. Beyond the ranges in the distance lies Beijing.
We were getting close to the "big northerly bend" now. (See map.)
V was waiting for me at the tall tower.
This was one of the larger towers.
Looking back, the Wall section covered so far looked very impressive.
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Looking ahead, we could sense we were approaching the home stretch. Even though distance-wise we had by now only covered a third of the day's trek, this was also the roughest part. We knew the next third was going to be a lot easier, and the final third would be along the touristy restored section of the wall, making that part extremely easy.
The upcoming third consisted for a big part of a huge detour that the wall made back up to the top of the mountain range, ensuring no surprise assault could be made upon it from higher ground. Great for the Chinese of the old days, but seemingly unnecessary if we hadn't been here for the beauty of it all!
Out of the tower...
On to the next...
dive through...
And get ready to take on the big bend.
Up the hill...
Through another tower...
Further up...
Where brave V was waiting for me again, hiding from the wind.
Enjoying the views before taking the steep path down.
This wall section goes steep down, but has no steps. No problem in the old days, I'm sure. But now it's become super slippery.
We had some good opportunity here to look at the other side of the bend, that we had just come from.
Once we reached the bottom of the bend, we got passed by another wanderer. The only one we had seen this day.
From here on the Wall became a lot easier and faster to walk.
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And before we knew it we were on the restored section.
It was an amazing day. But also an exhausting day. Certainly something that's better to do during the warmer season, so we were happy to pass out in the bus back to Beijing. Going back here, and actually walking along the wall in the opposite direction for at least a week is now certainly the number 1 item on my traveling "to do" list.
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